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A Congress on Hebrew Tours in Italy to be Held in Trieste
By Vanessa Tonnini

Trieste, the main outlet to the sea for the Austro-Hungarian Empire for two centuries (1719-1918), one of the focal points of Mitteleuropa and a border city where different cultures meet, is to host the congress "Itinerari ebraici in Italia" (Hebrew Tours in Italy) in October 2002 and provides the ideal starting point for a journey of discovery of the Hebrew heritage in Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

City of wind and bright as the plaster of its elegant buildings, gazing ever outwards towards the distant horizon and always at the centre of important historical events, Trieste has been reclaiming its role in the front rank of international politics. Strolling along the seafront or through the city streets lined with smart Viennese-style buildings and elegant cafes, one can still hear the echo of its illustrious past. The memory of legends, exotic spices, multifarious goods and vast freighters has not been swept away even by the howling bora, which hurtles down to the coast and whips up the sea.

It is among these very buildings that one of the major Jewish communities in Italy developed and thrived over the centuries, nourishing its cosmopolitan nature through the incorporation of various different traditions and cultures and reaching a total of 6000 in the early 20th century. There were several waves of migration from Germany, Istria and various towns in Friuli, the Veneto and the Marches, attracted by Trieste's more tolerant living conditions. The 18th century saw the arrival of a number of families from the Levant, while in the following century they were joined by Ashkenazi families (from Austria, Germany, Bohemia, Hungary, Poland and Rumania) and others from Greece at the end of the century, all eager to find a role in the burgeoning port.

Its status as a border city and ancient marine emporium led Trieste to learn to value exchange and toleration between its inhabitants and out of this grew a unique union with the cosmopolitan Jewish community. Hence the extraordinary richness and vitality of the Julian Jews' intellectual life, which provided a crucial impetus to the city's economic growth. The local Jews' brave and non-comformist attitude was ahead of its times and proved a boon to industry. Always maintaining a careful balance between tradition and assimilation, this community developed along unusual lines and over the years provided several illustrious financiers, businessmen and intellectuals. There is space here to mention only the foremost of these: Edoardo Weiss, psychoanalyst and pupil of Freud, the writer Italo Svevo and the poet Umberto Saba, who both had an uncomfortable relationship with their religious identity, and the publishers Treves and Teodoro Mayer. The latter was the founder of "Il Piccolo"; still the most widely read local newspaper.

Owing to its powerful bond with the Jewish community, Trieste was struck particularly hard by Fascism's race laws. At the time the city was also known as "Sion's Gateway", because from this port thousands of Jews left Europe between the First and Second World Wars headed for America and Israel. However, this also made Trieste the ideal site for Italy's only concentration camp, the Risiera di San Sabba, which has now been converted into a commemorative museum. These are the reasons lying behind the choice of venue for a congress, which intends not only to rediscover the geographical and historical landmarks in the Jewish community's presence in Italy, starting from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, but also to reinforce Trieste's geopolitical role as a bridge to Europe. Lying in a region abounding in charming landscapes, covering mountains, sea, rivers, lakes, marshes, plains and hills and richly endowed with artistic monuments, Trieste is a symbol of a meeting of cultures. Not for nothing does Saba write that wandering around the city one is enveloped by a strange and troubling atmosphere which, one might add, is the fruit of the union of peoples and civilisations and of the tragic and fertile encounter with history.


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