PURIM PARTY
The Jerusalem Post Purim Supplement
The Jerusalem Post
    High on Hamantaschen
By Faye Levy

Years ago I heard an anecdote about a little boy who ate over 20 poppy seed hamantaschen and got high.

Although poppy seeds do come from the opium poppy, I have my doubts about this story's reliability. According to The Cook's Book by Howard Hillman (Avon, 1981), "You can eat poppy-seed cakes and pastries forever without experiencing any narcotic effects, because the plant cannot form seeds until all the narcotic alkaloids have disappeared from the plants."

When you buy poppy seeds, they are raw, but roasting or cooking them brings out their pleasantly nutty flavor. They become toasted when baked on breads. For hamantaschen, some filling recipes simply call for mixing the seeds with sugar and dried fruit. I find the filling's flavor is far superior when the poppy seeds are cooked in milk or water together with the other filling ingredients.

Poppy seeds are quite perishable because of their high oil content. They should be stored in a cool place. If they have been ground, it's safest to keep them in the refrigerator and use them promptly.

It's easiest to buy poppy seeds ground, but if they are whole you can grind them in a coffee grinder. You can also crush them with a mortar and pestle or roll them with a rolling pin, but you'll need first to soak them in a little warm water to soften them.

Why eat poppy seeds for Purim? This tradition honors Queen Esther. When she moved into the king's palace, in order to avoid eating non-kosher food, she ate only seeds and legumes. In other words, she became a vegetarian. This gave rise to the custom of including poppy seeds in Purim sweets and of making use of beans and chickpeas in Purim menus.

POPPY SEED CROWN
This beautiful cake is the creation of my good friend Ronnie Venezia, an excellent baker. The cake is made of a sweet yeast dough and a creamy poppy seed filling. It is rolled like a strudel, then shaped into a spiral. When you cut a piece, you see the dramatic spiral pattern of the filling.

You will need a souffle dish of 24-cm diameter to keep the cake's lovely shape.

Yeast Dough:
25 gr. fresh yeast
1/2 cup lukewarm milk
1 tsp. sugar
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1/3 cup sugar
11/4 tsp. vanilla grated rind of 1 lemon
21/4 cups flour
1/2 tsp. salt
75 gr. butter, soft
1 beaten egg white, for brushing Poppy Seed

Filling:
1 cup milk
1/3 cup sugar
2 Tbsp. honey
50 gr. butter, soft
200 gr. ground poppy seeds
11/2 Tbsp. flour grated rind of 1 lemon
1 tsp. vanilla

To make the dough, dissolve the yeast in a small bowl with the milk and 1 teaspoon sugar and let stand about 10 minutes or until the mixture is bubbly.

Put egg, egg yolk, 1/3 cup sugar, vanilla, grated lemon rind, and yeast mixture in bowl of mixer. Mix slowly to a uniform mixture. Gradually add the flour and salt and knead with mixer to a uniform dough. Add butter in pieces and knead on medium speed about 5 minutes to achieve a soft, velvety elastic dough. Put in an oiled bowl and cover with a sheet of plastic wrap. Leave in a warm place for about 1 hour until the dough doubles in bulk.

To make the filling: Put the milk, sugar, and honey in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add remaining ingredients and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, about 5 more minutes. Remove from heat and chill.

To shape the spiral: Preheat oven to medium (180C). Thoroughly butter a souffle dish of 24-cm diameter. Roll out the dough on a floured surface to a 30- x 45-cm rectangle. Spread the poppy seed filling evenly on the dough, up to 3 cm from its edges. Brush the edges with the beaten egg white. Roll up the rectangle from its long sides and press to seal the edges. Wind it to a large spiral and set it carefully in the souffle dish. Cover and let rise about 1/2 minute but not until double.

Just before baking, brush cake with beaten egg white. Prick cake a few times with a toothpick (to release air bubbles). Bake about 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to medium-low (160C) and bake about 20 minutes or until the cake's color is golden brown - or until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean. Remove from oven and let cool slightly on a rack. Turn out carefully and continue cooling cake on a rack.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

POPPY SEED FILLED HAMANTASCHEN
For these hamantaschen, I use a tender, lightly sweetened dough flavored with fresh lemon rind. I love working with this easy, flexible dough. You can even make it 2 or 3 days ahead.

When shaping hamantaschen, close them well. Avoid the temptation to use extra filling, or it will come out during baking. You can refrigerate the shaped hamantaschen overnight before baking. Once they are baked, they'll stay fresh-tasting for about 4 days in an airtight container.

1 large egg
2 to 3 Tbsp. sour cream or water
21/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
200 gr. cold butter or margarine, cut in small pieces 11/2 tsp. grated lemon rind

To make the dough, beat egg with 2 tablespoons sour cream or water. Combine flour, powdered sugar, baking powder and salt in a food processor. Process briefly to blend. Scatter butter pieces over mixture. Mix using on/off motion until mixture resembles coarse meal.

Sprinkle with grated rind and pour egg mixture evenly over mixture in processor. Process with on/off motion, scraping down occasionally, until dough just begins to come together in a ball. If mixture is dry, add remaining tablespoon sour cream or water by teaspoons over mixture, and process briefly again.

Transfer dough to a work surface. Knead lightly to blend. With a rubber spatula, transfer dough to a sheet of plastic wrap, wrap it, and push it together. Shape dough in a flat disk.

Refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to 3 days.

Prepare filling and refrigerate. To shape hamantaschen, use one quarter of dough at a time. Roll it out on a lightly-floured surface until about 3 mm thick. Using a 7.5-cm cookie cutter, cut dough in circles. Brush edges lightly with water. Put 1 teaspoon filling in center of each. Pull up edges of circle in 3 arcs that meet in center above filling. Close them firmly. Pinch edges to seal. Put on greased baking sheet and refrigerate. Refrigerate scraps.

Roll remaining dough and scraps and shape more hamantaschen. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes before baking to firm dough, or, if you prefer, up to 1 day.

Preheat oven to 190C. Bake hamantaschen about 14 minutes or until they are light golden at edges. Cool on a rack.

Makes about 32 hamantaschen.

POPPY SEED FILLING FOR HAMANTASCHEN
This filling will be most creamy if you use ground poppy seeds, and with a slightly crunchy texture if you use whole ones.

3/4 cup poppy seeds (100 gr.), ground or whole
1/2 cup milk or water
6 or 7 Tbsp. sugar
1/2 cup raisins
2 to 3 Tbsp. butter or margarine
1 tsp. grated lemon rind

In a small saucepan combine poppy seeds, milk, and sugar and bring to a simmer. Cook over low heat, stirring often, about 15 to 20 minutes or until thick. Add raisins and butter and stir over low heat until butter melts. Remove from heat. Stir in grated rind. Chill well before using.

Makes enough for about 32 hamantaschen.

Faye Levy is the author of Faye Levy's International Jewish Cookbook (Warner, 1991).

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