

Banias and Caesarea Philippi of the Roman period By YADIN ROMAN
ON TOUR
The Greeks called this site the Panias - and it is a name which has endured in the popular mind long after the Roman city of Ceasarea Philippi was destroyed. The history of Greek-Roman settlement begins after 198 BC, following a decisive battle between the heirs of Alexander the Great (the Ptolemaic dynasty of Egypt) and the Seleucid dynasty of Syria. The victor, the Seleucid king Antiochus III, founded a Greek city that was initially called Antioch, on the site of the older Biblical city of Dan.
Outside of Antioch, near its rich water springs, Greek settlers erected a shrine to Pan, deity of goatherds and music, patron of sexual license and nymphs. Even for the sensual Greeks, Pan was a problematic god to contend with, and the temples to this deity who was half man and half goat were built outside of settlement boundaries, in caves, secluded woods, and near water sources. Gradually, the site became known as Panias, which is preserved in the Arabic corruption of the name, Banias, to this day.
 Nimrod's Fortress. This 10th century fortress, overlooks the
Spring of Banias (Ceasarea Philippi). |
In 26 BC, Ceasar Augustus presented King Herod with Panias and the Hula Valley. In honor of his benefactor, Herod built a white marble temple at Panias. After Herod's death in 4 BC, his kingdom was divided among his sons, and the tetrarch Philip received the Golan and the Hula Valley. He decided to build his capital in Panias, which he renamed Caesarea Philippi.
Few traces of Roman Banias are actually visible today. They are largely buried between the trees of the present-day nature reserve and under the ruins of an Arab village and former Crusader town. To get a general impression, however, enter the reserve at its easternmost entrance, near Banias spring and cave, and walk along the path leading to the Banias Waterfall. (make arrangements to be picked up at the Banias Waterfall parking lot in about an hour and a half ).
Meander past ancient prayer niches and temples around the cave from which the spring originally bubbled up. From the cave, follow the path along the river. After a short distance, it makes its way under a bridge. Once on the other side, the path climbs a few steps to a beautiful wood. Parts of the old walls of Caesarea Philippi protrude from the undergrowth alongside hidden waterfalls and small stone basins filled from crystal clear springs. From here, a short path leads to an old water mill, still operating today.
The path continues through the trees to a footbridge that crosses the river again. At this point, the path follows an old water channel that used to power a series of additional water mills that lined the banks of the river. Thirty minutes later, the path reaches a large rock, which affords a beautiful view of the Hula Valley and the Mountains of Naphtali. Underneath you is the raging Banias Waterfall. Follow the path across another footbridge to the waterfall and the steps leading up to the parking lot.
The river walk is a good time to reread the words of Psalm 42, which describe the feelings of a priest exiled from the court of King David to the heights of the Golan. "My God, my soul is downcast within me. Therefore I will remember you from the land of the Jordan, the heights of Hermon-from Mount Mizar. Deep calls to deep in the roar of your waterfalls; all your waves and breakers have swept over me...I say to God my Rock, 'Why have you forgotten me? Why must I go about mourning, oppressed by the enemy?'" (Psalms 42:6-9).
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