Millennium Special
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The Holy Land's millennium
By EATTA PRINCE-GIBSON

FRIDAY, DECEMBER 17, 1999
Will the year 2000 be a success or a colossal failure for the Israeli tourism industry? The answer depends on whom you ask.

Academics and tourism professionals complain bitterly that the planning for this hallmark tourism year has been plagued by lack of vision, poor planning, insufficient funding, political short-sightedness, Jewish xenophobia, and bureaucratic incompetence. Government officials, on the other hand, insist that the situation is satisfactory, and that most, if not all, is well with Tourism 2000.

According to Dr. Joel Mansfeld, from the Center for Tourism, Pilgrimage, and Recreation Research at Haifa University, Israel has missed a wonderful opportunity.

'The decision to establish a commission of inquiry to investigate the catastrophe has already been made,' he says. 'After the year is over, they will decide who will sit on the committee.'

In contrast, Yossi Noi, director-general of Administration 2000, the organization responsible for millennial tourism, asserts, 'There is no failure and no catastrophe. When we look at the big picture, we see that 2000 will be a good year for Israeli tourism.'

Four years ago, in a declaration entitled Tertio Millennio Adveniente, the pope announced that he intended to visit the Holy Land and promised all Catholics that their sins would be forgiven if they visited both Rome and Jerusalem in 2000.

The pope's pronouncement should have been a wake-up call for the politicians, officials, and professionals dealing with tourism, but apparently it wasn't. It was only in early 1998, two years before the millennium, that the government established the Tourism Ministry's Administration 2000 to coordinate, supervise, promote, and encourage the relevant government ministries to plan for 2000.

Says Mansfeld: 'The year 2000 is a hallmark event. In order to do things properly, the government should have started planning eight to 10 years ago. After all, 2000 didn't come as a surprise!'

Noi, the third director-general since the administration was established, assumed his position only three months ago. Hinting at political ineptitude in the previous government, he says, 'I don't know why everything was done so late. Honestly, I ask myself the same question.'

According to Noi, Administration 2000 was set up not as a decision-making body, but to implement the decisions made by an interministerial committee and a committee of directors-general currently headed by Yossi Kucik, the director-general of the Prime Minister's Office.

Mansfeld contends that the interministerial committee should have taken some of the authority away from the ministries and invested it in Administration 2000.

'The politicians are, and always have been, incapable of taking authority away from one ministry and assigning it to an ad-hoc, independent government corporation,' Mansfeld says. 'But that's the only way to make decisions and prevent the ministers from getting bogged down in petty short-sightedness.'

Administration 2000 received a budget for overhead, and the respective ministries were expected to finance activities for the millennium from their regular budgets - which, not surprisingly, most of them refused to do. Lacking any formal authority, the administration was unable to force them to do so.

As a result, Noi admits, government decisions were not implemented, investments in infrastructure were not allocated, and even simple directives were not followed. And now, Israel is playing a game of catch up.

Officials, professionals, and politicians have long been aware, for example, that the long lines and crowding at Ben-Gurion Airport have been a major public-relations and logistical problem. Yet a government decision to upgrade the computer system was not implemented due to disagreements over funding among the relevant ministries and organizations.

Kucik recently started dealing with this, and within six weeks an upgraded state-of-the-art computer system - at a cost of $1.5 million - is expected to be in operation, says Noi. There are also plans to open additional terminals, and departing tourists will undergo security checks at their hotels before being transported, with their luggage, directly to the gate.

These measures, Noi asserts, will improve the 'get out of the airport' time significantly.

The 'game of decreasing numbers' has been another symptom of the disorganization and lack of strategic, proactive planning. An internal Tourism Ministry document, dated mid-1998, anticipated four million tourists who would have brought $3.4 billion into Israel's GNP, generated a 3% market growth, and created nearly 50,000 job opportunities.

But now, all seem to agree that this figure was too high, and, at best, Israel can look forward to three million tourists in 2000.

Dani Shahal, director of the Overseas Offices and Marketing Department in the Tourism Ministry, says three million isn't bad. 'All sorts of numbers were thrown into the air, but it isn't good for the country to grow too fast. In 1995, we reached a peak of 2.5 million tourists. Then the number dropped, due to the bombings and the political climate. Now it is coming back up, and so growing to three million is very satisfactory.'

Jonathan Harpaz, director-general of the Jerusalem Hotel Association, is also satisfied - under the circumstances. 'Yes, three million is a satisfactory number - but only because Israel couldn't take in any more, because the infrastructure isn't ready. Had the government and the ministries prepared adequately, we could have easily reached four million.'

And will Israel be ready even for these three million?

Noi acknowledges that, until recently, Administration 2000 had not taken 'advantage of the momentum it could have used to push things forward, and important government decisions were not implemented,' like plans to upgrade the airport.

But, he notes, the busiest tourist seasons have always been in the spring and the fall (and not, as is commonly assumed, over the Christmas holiday season). And, he added, this year, March and April will be particularly busy, due to the pope's anticipated visit. Noi promises that Administration 2000 has gone into high gear and will be ready in time.

The bulk of tourists will be, as always, Christians, whose visits concentrate on three areas: Jerusalem, Nazareth, and the area around the Kinneret.

In Jerusalem, the historical tourist sites have been adequately prepared as have new sites, such as the Kings' Valley. However, according to Harpaz, Jerusalem's tourist problems are much more basic.

'Jerusalem,' he says, 'is filthy. Simply disgusting. The city isn't lit up, and it doesn't feel festive. The walls of the Old City have beautiful lighting, but the rest of the city is dingy. And the entrance to Jerusalem isn't welcoming at all. The city isn't decorated.

'Storefronts in the center of the city aren't attractive, and the pedestrian mall in the center of the city is neglected and unkempt. The mayor should have made these things his priority.'

In response, spokespersons for the Jerusalem Municipality have insisted that Jerusalem will be ready by next week, and certainly for the spring. Mayor Ehud Olmert too has publicly promised that by next week his city will be decorated and lit up, that the pedestrian mall will be finished, and that even the damage caused to the Garden of Gethsemane by recent rains will be taken care of.

Furthermore, insists Noi, Checkpoint 300 between Jerusalem and Bethlehem will soon be improved and operational. Israeli and Palestinian teams met to coordinate, and on December 4, when Palestinian Authority Chairman Yasser Arafat lit the Christmas tree in Bethlehem, the new arrangements worked perfectly.

'The traffic will flow freely, and pilgrims will be able to move easily between Bethlehem and Jerusalem,' Noi promises.

Even Jerusalem's infamous parking problem will be resolved, according to Noi. Currently, the 850-space Karta parking lot, adjacent to the Jaffa Gate, is closed on Shabbat, due to a religious coalition which owns and operates the lot. According to Noi, Minister Haim Ramon and Tourism Minister Amnon Lipkin-Shahak have taken this problem on, including raising the possibility that parking on Friday nights and Saturdays will be free, thus avoiding the need to violate the Sabbath through monetary transactions.

'It's absurd,' Noi admits. 'We have a perfect parking lot, and then it's closed on the days when we need it the most. And Christmas is going to be on Friday night and Saturday!'

The area around the Kinneret, according to both Noi and Shahal, will also be adequately prepared. However, extensive ministry plans, including the construction of a pier for tourist ships in Capernaum and the straightening of the road in the area of Mensa Christi to facilitate easy and safe walking for pilgrims visiting churches to the north of the Kinneret, simply weren't implemented or are still far from completion. According to Shahal, the Tourism Ministry is currently investing additional funds for sewerage and roads in the area, and hopes that they will be ready for the March-April crush.

There are approximately 55,000 hotel rooms (including kibbutzim and bed-and-breakfasts) in Israel, and these should be adequate for the tourists who will arrive, says Shahal. In March, however, a group of nearly 40,000 youths will be coming at the same time as the pope and Shahal says that they will be set up in tent camps around the Kinneret.

'No one, no country, could take on such a number all at once,' Shahal insists. 'These groups are made up of youthful pilgrims, and they will do fine in the tent camps.'

The big problem, however, is Nazareth. The city of Nazareth simply won't be ready for the tourists - or the pope - in the spring.

In 1998, an internal Tourism Ministry document announced that the Nazareth 2000 Project would start development works in the city to prepare for the expected tourists and pilgrims. Plans called for important infrastructure improvements such as additional parking lots, paving of major traffic routes, and the development of observation points, communion corners, and a small amphitheater for prayer.

Nazareth has had a facelift, and it does look a bit spiffier. But the late planning didn't allow for the correction of some of the major infrastructure problems and today there are parking spots for only 50 buses.

'The city of Nazareth is paralyzed by the enmity between the Christians and the Moslems,' Mansfeld says. 'If the government had intervened early enough, they might have been able to help them to reach some resolution, but, at the last minute, nothing can be done.'

According to Noi, Kucik is working hard to improve the situation, including the parking disaster. 'Nazareth is a problem,' he sighs. 'We'll do what can be done, but we won't be able to fix it all at the last minute. What will be will be.'

And there are other areas, not connected to the tourist sites, that may not be resolved, even by the end of 2000.

For example, the problem of visas, which continues to plague Israeli tourism. Until recently, the Interior Ministry was wary of non-Jewish tourists for religious reasons, and it remains wary of potential illegal foreign workers. The ministry has therefore made it extremely difficult for non-Jewish tourists from countries such as Romania, the Philippines, and the former Soviet Union to obtain tourist visas to Israel.

Here, too, Noi's reply is optimistic. 'We are trying to make things easier for the tourists, but we don't want, at the same time, to make the problem of illegal workers worse.'

New computer services, which will soon be introduced in the Interior Ministry, will make the visa problem easier, he promises.

But according to Rabbi David Rosen, director of the Israel Office of the Anti-Defamation League and co-liaison to the Vatican, Israel isn't prepared for the influx of tourists in a much more profound way.

'This year is a wonderful opportunity for Jews and Christians to get to know each other. It is a wonderful opportunity for Israelis to come to know Christians and for Christians to know Israelis,' Rosen says.

Noting that the Catholic Church has undergone tremendous changes in the last generation, Rosen believes that Israel is missing a critical opportunity. 'We should certainly help to educate Catholics about Israel and Judaism, but, much more importantly, we should be educating ourselves.'

The focus on the few apocalyptic evangelicals, Rosen insists, is just one example of lack of knowledge. Although dangerous, these largely Protestant groups represent a 'fraction of a tiny minority, yet, because of ignorance, the media have focused on them rather than on the millions of humble pilgrims who are coming.'

Similarly, Dr. Ron Kronish, director of the Interreligious Coordinating Council in Israel, believes that the rabbinate's refusal to allow hotels to put up Christmas trees and other cultural symbols reflects historical Jewish insecurity and a deep misunderstanding of what the Jewish state should mean.

'The religious establishment is continuing to distrust everyone, instead of encouraging modernity, openness, and our own self-confidence as Jews,' Kronish says. 'Meeting with the Christians who will be coming here, teaching them about ourselves and learning about them, would be a step toward tikkun olam, the bettering of the world to which every Jew should be committed.'

Shahal and Noi both promise that the Ministry of Tourism and Administration 2000 are about to begin an extensive media campaign to explain the value of tourism to Israelis. Ads on radio, TV, and in the printed media, together with large street signs, will encourage the public to 'be friendly to tourists' and welcome them warmly.

Overall, Noi and Shahal remain confident.

'We can't fix in three or four months what hasn't been done over the years, that's true. And, of course, there will be problems, but we got through October and November, when there were record numbers of tourists,' says Shahal.

'Got through,' it would appear, is a relative term. In October, approximately 300,000 tourists entered Israel - the highest ever. In Jerusalem, around the Kinneret, and in Nazareth, there were tremendous traffic jams. At Ben-Gurion Airport and at numerous tourist sites, all sorts of vehicles were pressed into service, due to a lack of buses.

Tourists were shuttled from makeshift parking lots to their destinations, and the lines outside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher stretched throughout the Old City.

'There were long lines,' Shahal admits, 'and there were some problems. But all in all, it went over okay. And it certainly isn't going to be a catastrophe - after all, at Disneyland and at the Eiffel Tower, don't people wait in line, sometimes for over an hour?

So what will the conclusion be, one year from now? It would appear that officials are counting on Israel's 'secret weapon' - a well-known capacity to 'wing it.'

But Mansfeld says soberly, 'The millennium is too great an event to just wing it, to count on improvisation. The bottom line is that this will be the third time in a decade that Israel blew it: We blew the Jerusalem 3000 event, we blew Israel's 50th anniversary, and now we're about to blow the millennium. And all for the same reasons - inept, short-term planning, lack of vision, and the inability to think strategically.

'It's a national mistake,' Mansfeld continues. 'It shows that our ability to respond to hallmark events is poor, and this will affect our ability to compete for other hallmark events in the future, such as international festivals, Olympics, etc. We just won't have any international credit.'

Harpaz agrees. 'Everything here is political, not rational or thought-out. We are always putting out the fires, so we don't deal with the long-term issues. Everyone says how important tourism is, but then the funds are allocated to yeshivot and ritual baths instead of additional hotel rooms.'

But Shahal and Noi remain optimistic.

'Of course, we can always improve,' says Shahal. 'And things can always be better. But overall, 2000 will be a wonderful year for tourism, and 2001 will be even better. We will grow gradually, the way we should, and by 2003, we will approach four million tourists.'