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Jerusalem Through the Centuries

In Jerusalem: Ten Christian Sites
By VIVA SARAH PRESS

Church of the Holy Sepulchre
To many Christians, this is the holiest site in Jerusalem. Its size and reputation as the place where nothing can get done because its various denominations bicker over every minute detail that involves a change to the site (including changing a light bulb), attracts the bulk of tourists as far as Christian sites in Israel goes.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Claim to fame: This church is said to mark the site of Golgotha. At the entrance to the Franciscan Chapel is the tenth station where Jesus was stripped of his clothes, and at the far end is the eleventh where he was nailed to the cross. To the left in the Greek chapel is the twelfth station, the site of the Crucifixion. Between the eleventh and twelfth stations is the thirteenth where Mary received Jesus' body. Jesus' tomb on the ground floor is the fourteenth station.

Icons: A painting above the stone where Jesus was lain before being buried illustrates the story of his Crucifixion; a life-size Jesus, clad in a metal loincloth marks the twelfth station; the thirteenth station is marked by a statue of Mary with a silver dagger stuck into her breast; Jesus' tomb is in a large marble structure. In the rest of the church's labyrinth of small chapels one will find many decrepit paintings with religious themes. Sense appeal: Being in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher is like being on an adventure; the size of the church with all of its small chapels is exciting to explore. The different religious sects laying claim to different parts of the church adds a hint of intensity.

Open: 5 am - 8 pm, free.

The Garden Tomb
Hidden behind the Jerusalem east bus station, the Garden Tomb is an oasis in the middle of smog and pollution. As well as being a religious site, it is a unique respite from the bustling city outside its gates.

Claim to fame: The garden is believed by some Protestants to be Golgotha, the site of Jesus's crucifixion.

Icons: Beautifully-manicured garden; Tomb said to be that of Joseph of Arimanthea, who placed Jesus' body in his own tomb after the crucifixion.

Sense appeal: The garden leaves one with a peaceful feeling, with guides who are both soft-spoken and informative.

Open: Monday-Saturday, 8 am - 12:15 pm and 2:30 - 5:15 pm, free.

Church of St. John
Among all the things it has going for it, this church has a prime location: it can be found in the heart of the picturesque village of Ein Kerem.

Claim to fame: Ein Kerem is traditionally known as the birthplace of John the Baptist. The church marks the exact spot where he was born.

Icons: Huge paintings dealing with Christian themes including the Decapitation of Saint John.

Sense appeal: The church, and its picturesque surroundings, leaves one with a sense of tranquility.

Open: Monday-Saturday, 8 am - 12 noon and 2:30 - 6 pm; Sun 9 -noon and 2:30 - 5 pm, free.

Condemnation Chapel and Chapel of Flagellation
Claim to fame: Jesus was sentenced to crucifixion in the Condemnation Chapel and was first flogged by Roman soldiers at the Chapel of Flagellation.

Icons: The courtyard is plain and yet inviting. The chapels are simple and depict scenes of Jesus' life.

Sense appeal: Relaxed atmosphere off the busy Via Dolorosa street.

Open: 8 am - noon and 2 - 6 pm, free.

The Grotto of the Apostles and Mary's Tomb
The open and very plain courtyard is a stark contrast to the eerily dark and dusty cave containing Mary's Tomb below. At the bottom of the 45 steps underground, a monk sells pictures of Mary. The adjoining grotto is small and packed with tourists.

Claim to fame: The grotto is said to be the site of the betrayal and arrest of Jesus. The grotto adjoins Mary's Tomb, where according to tradition, the body of the mother of Jesus was brought to rest.

Icons: In Mary's Tomb, the numerous religious paintings on the walls take away from the meaning of the event. In the grotto, there are three fresco scenes which depict Jesus Praying with the Twelve Disciples, The Judas Kiss and The Assumption of Mary.

Sense appeal: The Tomb of Mary is dank and dusty; the grotto is cramped and overly-bright with fluorescent bulbs. Yet, there's an unexplainable attraction to this place.

Open: 8:30 am - 12 noon; 2:30 pm - 5 pm, free.

The Russian Orthodox Church
The Russian Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene
The Russian Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene
Situated on the slope of the Mount of Olives, this church has a great view of the Old City.

Claim to fame: Czar Alexander III built the church in 1885 and dedicated it to his mother, the Empress Maria Alexandrovna. The crypt houses the body of a Russian grand duchess. Now serves as a convent for 28 nuns.

Icons: Large murals depicting the life of Saint Mary Magdalene were painted by well-known Russian artist Sergei Ivanov (1864-1910).

Sense appeal: A pervasive smell of incense and a nice garden.

Open: Tuesday and Thursday, 10 - 11:30 am, free.

Sanctuary of Dominus Flevit (The Lord Wept)
With another excellent view of the Old City, this small modern church offers the tired traveler a comfortable surprise.

Claim to Fame: This church was erected in 1955 to mark the spot where Jesus wept for Jerusalem. The chapel, constructed by Italian architect Antonio Barluzzi, is in the shape of a teardrop.

Icons: Nice mosaic outside the church; inside somewhat bare. At the entrance to the compound there is an ossuary.

Sense appeal: The cactus garden would provide a homey feeling if not for the neon green benches set out for tourists to take a breather.

Open: 8 am - 12 pm; 2:30 pm - 5 pm, free.

Church of All Nations
Church of All Nations (Basilica of the Agony)
Church of All Nations (Basilica of the Agony)
Because this church is at the bottom of the Mount of Olives path, it is a common gathering spot for hawkers, camels, and taxis waiting to take tourists for a ride. The Garden of Gethsemane inside the gate offers a nice respite.

Claim to fame: The garden is said to be where Jesus spent his last night in prayer before he was betrayed by Judas.

Icons: Mosaics inside the dimly lit church depict the last days of Jesus' life, outside the facade portrays Jesus bringing peace to all nations. The stained-glass windows keep the light out.

Sense appeal: The church is very dark and the garden is dry.

Open: 8:30 am - 12 pm and 2:30 pm - 6 pm, free.

Lutheran Church of the Redeemer
This enormous and startling building is hard to miss in the Old City's Christian Quarter. Too bad; it's interior is worth a miss.

Claim to fame: A spiral staircase leads up to its bell tower.

Icons: Few paintings; lots of flyers about upcoming events in the Christian community.

Sense appeal: An empty feeling overcomes one when inside the church.

Open: 9 am - 12 pm; 1:30 pm - 5pm, free.

Ecce Homo Arch
With local vendors offering "free" tours of this and other sites along the Via Dolorosa, it's hard to imagine this place attracts any visitors at all.

Claim to fame: Pilate is said to have looked down upon a scrouged Jesus and cried "Behold the Man."

Icons: Behind a pane of glass one can see the remnants of the arch.

Sense appeal: none

Open: Monday-Saturday, 8:30 am - 12:30 pm and 2 pm - 4 pm, free.

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