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Unto The Nations The lights burn bright around the world THE story of "the little jar of oil that could" (last for eight days, of course!) of dreidels, of donuts and latkes - these are the ubiquitous trappings of the Hanukka Holiday in Israel. Candles or oil, the lights burn bright all over the Jewish world, commemorating the Jewish victory over the Greeks during the revolt of the Maccabees, in the 2nd century BCE. But while it tends to be donuts and dreidels in Israel, in the Jewish Diaspora other customs and festive foods have developed for celebrating this eight-day wonder.
Greece Some of the earliest Jewish communities in Greece may have been founded by Hellenized Jews who had compromised their own heritage and fled with retreating Greek armies to settle there, according to Nicholas Stavroulakis in the Cookbook of the Jews of Greece. Because the holiday's origins are anti-Hellenist, and because the Hellenized Jews living in Greece would hardly celebrate what could be termed their country's own defeat, it is not surprising that Hanukka is not as major a Jewish holiday in Greece as it is elsewhere. However, eating fried food is still the custom. Pancakes called tiganites (tigani is frying pan in Greek) are popular, made with regular flour, whole wheat or rice flour; flavored with honey or sugar syrup, cinnamon, ouzo or raki. Romaniote communities make zvingous or loukoumades, versions of the Sephardic bimwuelos, which resemble fried donut holes. Halva made with semolina is also a treat.
Italy The Hanukka traditions of a childhood in Pitigliano (Tuscany), a community whose founders arrived from Spain following the Expulsion, is described by Italian food writer Edna Machlin Servi in The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews I and II. The oil hanukkiot, with olive oil-filled square basins and a cotton wick for each light, that hung from the wall: the bronze one at their synagogue and the silver one in their home are lovingly recalled. According to Servi, a Pitigliano menu might include rice and raisins, crepes with tuna sauce, fried chicken, eggplant Jewish style and fritelle di chanuka (fried bread dough with anise, raisins, dipped in honey syrup). Also traditional were chestnut flour latkes or Hanukka rice fritters.
Turkey On the last day of Hanukka, it was traditional in Turkish communities - such as Izmir and Istanbul - for Jews to get together around a pot-luck dinner called a merenda, dominated by a menu of various deep-fried dishes.
Yemen In Yemen, children went from house to house, carrying bowls or tins, to collect wicks for the hanukkia. They chanted in Yemenite: "O father Salim, give us a present." If they received the wicks (along with fruits, candies and coins), they would respond in Hebrew, "Sleep well." If they left empty-handed - no wicks or treats - they would shout at the householder in Yemenite, "You miser, may your wicks be as dry as your bones!"
Aden Blue clothing was the Hanukka custom for Jewish children in Aden, representing the heavens, from where the miracles of came.
Germany The last night of Hanukka in Germany used to be very special. All the left-over wicks and oil were used in giant bonfires. People sang and danced around the fire until very late at night.
France On the evening following Shabbat Hanukka, the Jews of Avignon opened barrels of new wine. Groups of revelers would roam from place to place tasting the new wine and toasting the holiday.
Israel Here, at home in Israel, the fifth night of Hanukka has been called "The Black Fifth Night," after that terrible night during WWI when the Turks expelled all the Jewish residents from Tel Aviv and Jaffa.
Tunisia Tunisian women would commemorate the seventh day of Hanukka when the widow Judith is said to have performed her brave acts during the period of Syrian Greek dominance. The women would come to the synagogue, walk past the Torah and kiss it, while the men were completing the study of Tractate Shabbat of the Talmud, which contains the story of Hanukka.
Italian Rice Fritters
1 cup Italian Arborio rice Place rice in pan with the water and salt. Bring to a boil. Lower to simmer, cover, and cook without stirring for 30 minutes, or until rice is well done and dry. Remove from heat, add raisins, nuts, rind and stir. Cool for at least 1/2 hour before adding eggs, mix well. Heat half the oil in a large frying pan. Drop rice into hot oil by rounded tablespoonful. Fry 2-3 minutes, turn and fry another 2 minutes until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towel. Place another sheet of paper towel over and continue frying and layering the pancakes. When the batter is finished, remove the paper towels, arrange on platter, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, or just eat plain. Serves 6.
Tiganites
2 cups whole wheat flour Mix together flour, soda, salt in large bowl. In another bowl, mix honey, oil, water. Add the liquids to the dry ingredients to make a thin batter. Add more water if necessary. Add the ouzo or raki, mix, let sit for an hour or more. Heat the oil in a large frying pan until hot but not smoking. pour in the batter by spoonfuls. As each is finished, sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar or honey and ground walnuts. Makes about 20.
Yoyos
4 large eggs Beat together eggs, sugar and 1 Tbs oil in medium bowl with electric mixer until creamy. In a large bowl, mix flour and baking powder. Fold egg batter into flour with a spoon. Add vanilla sugar, orange water and orange zest. Combine ingredients until the mix is slightly sticky. If it is too sticky add more flour, if too dry add a little oil. Turn the dough out onto a floured board, knead for a few minutes. Form into a large ball, cover with a clean towel, let rest for 30 minutes. Roll dough into small balls about 5 cm, and work the balls into rings, poke a hole into the middle so they look like little donuts. Pour 10 cm of oil into a deep pot and heat to about 180F (350F). Fry the rings until golden, turn once. Remove and drain on paper towel. Dip into honey syrup, and serve immediately. Makes about 30.
Honey Syrup
2 cups sugar
Sweet Cheese Pancakes
1 pound cottage cheese,
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